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Post by Phil on Jul 15, 2014 15:36:36 GMT -6
I put a set of DR's on 2 weeks ago and broke the E string yesterday. The last set Of DR's I also broke the E string, but I had them on much longer. I never ever broke an Ernie Ball 11 which I used before buying the DR's. The big problem is that you can't buy single DR strings. You have to buy a whole set. I now have 2 sets of DR's left - 1 complete and 1 short an E string. If this E string doesn't last at least a couple of months I'm done with DR's.
Anybody have a recommendation for a good durable 10 gauge string? I don't feel like going back to 11's.
Phil
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Post by blackcountrymick on Jul 15, 2014 16:06:20 GMT -6
Elixir's last the longest for me, I use 9's on my strat types and 10's on my short scales, I never break a 10.
I also like EB super slinkys.
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Post by jack1982 on Jul 16, 2014 4:49:13 GMT -6
I really didn't care for those DR's. I bought a couple sets and in the first one the D string was defective - it says you should put a sharp bend in the string with a pliers where it goes through the tuning peg to lock the winding to the core - well of course I didn't do that and the D string sounded like it was getting horrible fret buzz and the intonation was a mile off. I swiped the D out of the other set to replace it. I broke the high E within a few days and even broke the G with some of those double stops in Drivin' Blues. Then yesterday the whole set went completely dead and sounded like crap lol. I bought ten sets of those Musician's Gear strings from Musician's Friend. Just put the first set on yesterday so I can't comment too much on the quality, but they didn't sound noticeably bad or anything. And at $22 / 10 sets I don't really care how long they last. In the past I've usually used D'Addario's and have always been happy with them. I've been happy with pretty much any kind of string except GHS Boomers - those things would break before I even got them out of the envelope. Phil I'd just buy a supply of extra 10's and not worry about what brand they are  |
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Post by wannaplayblues on Jul 16, 2014 5:25:29 GMT -6
Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky
top 3 strings from a set of 9s and bottom 3 strings from a set of 10s. That way my bottom strings have some deep tones in them and the top ones are perfect for bending.
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Post by Phil on Jul 16, 2014 7:44:59 GMT -6
Thanks for the responses. I've got a high price, medium price, and a super-low price recommendation. I'm all about doing this whole guitar thing as cheaply as possible so, I'm going with Jack1982's recommendation of Musician's Gear Strings for $2.29 a set the next time I buy strings. They got some pretty good reviews on Musician's Friend.
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Post by cunningr on Jul 20, 2014 9:33:33 GMT -6
I use broken strings to cut my cakes into layers, yes I like to cook.
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Post by Phil on Jul 24, 2014 15:35:08 GMT -6
I just broke another high E string that I replaced only 10 days ago. I was practicing "All Forms Blues" which has more bends than the previous 20 studies combined. (I'm beginning to think that John G. has a perverse, twisted sense of humor). But, I digress. I was about to go on a rant against DR Pure Blues strings when I noticed that it broke right at the saddle. Upon close examination I saw that the saddle, which I assume should be smooth, had a rough groove worn into it. Obviously, the metal these saddles are made from is quite soft. I have a Squier Classic 60's Strat hand crafted in China. So, here is my question: Would it be worth it to buy a set of higher quality saddles and go through all the trouble of replacing them and resetting the intonation? I should be receiving Dan Erlewine's book "How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great - Second Edition" in a few days, so I'm sure I'll be able to figure out how to do this with his help. I'm just looking for suggestions from someone who might have some experience with this. This is the style of saddle that I have: www.allparts.com/thumbnail.asp?file=/assets/images/thumbs/BP-0023-001_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=140&maxy=140 If I decide to buy a new set I wonder if I should buy the titanium ones. They run $105.00 as opposed to $28.00 for the chrome ones. $28.00 is more in my price range. Thanks |
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Post by bluesbruce on Jul 24, 2014 20:45:07 GMT -6
Phil,
I'm not much on guitar repair, but can you file or sand down the rough spot in the saddle? You've got to ask yourself if spending that amount of money on the Squier is worth it - especially the $105 titanium ones. If you really love the guitar, than that answer is an obvious "yes". Maybe the Erlewine book addresses this, or have you Googled this problem? sometimes, that gives you some good guidance. Good luck with it, and let us all know what you decide.
Bruce
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Post by cunningr on Jul 24, 2014 23:23:24 GMT -6
Tough question, I have been doing a lot of research on DIY kits, which talks a lot about setup ect... I wouldn't think changing the saddle would be to difficult, but looking at cost the $105 is almost a fourth the cost of that epi 339 you were looking into. Maybe some sanding and graphite might help.
Setting the intonation requires patience and a good tuner, basically you tune to open pitch then check harmonic at 12 if it's out of tune then adjust saddle retune and check. I think learning some basic set is essential.
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Post by Phil on Jul 25, 2014 4:35:28 GMT -6
Thanks for the input. I'll try filing/sanding before spending any dough. If I do have to buy saddles, I've decided on the $28.00 set.
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Post by jack1982 on Jul 25, 2014 5:01:01 GMT -6
I don't know anything about fixing saddles, but I'd definitely try sanding off the rough spot before thinking of replacing anything. Maybe some 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a thin rod or something? Hardware stores usually have thin brass rods in a variety of sizes. Maybe polish it with some steel wool afterwards. I wouldn't get the titanium saddles for $105, An American Deluxe Stratocaster Bridge is only $109 LOL. www.fender.com/guitar-bass-parts/bridge-assemblies-components/bridge-assembly-american-deluxe-strat-chrome/I got a dozen extra high E's from Musician's Friend for $2.19 www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/rogue-p10-bulk-12-pack-010-plain-steel-electric-guitar-strings If you break one every ten days, that's 120 days for $2.19 or...well a really long time before you hit $28.00. If you end up getting new saddles, I think it would be a good idea to take really precise measurements of the distance between the old saddles and the back of the bridge before removing them. Maybe even get 6 little pieces of wood and mark them E A D G B E and cut / sand them to size so they fit snugly between each saddle and the back of the bridge. Then when you install the new saddles you'd have a real good starting point as far as the position of each saddle so the intonation won't be a mile off. |
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tuch
New Member
Posts: 11 
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Post by tuch on Jul 30, 2014 8:16:19 GMT -6
Removing BURRS: Wet & Dry Paper 320 grit.Cut out a square 1". Roll it into a TIGHT roll. Stroke in 1 directional stroke(s) Round over the burr.Which usually is seen at the very edge of the hole,where underside of the string makes Contact etc.A few 1 directional strokes should suffice here...to remove the tiny burr etc.(sharp,keen edge)-Keep the Roll straight.Too much pressure will bend it etc.So use a confident,firm application.Rubbing back & forth erratically can weaken the mini roll sander.
If string breaks at the nut=String Bind.The 2 slot walls are gripping the string thus inhibiting its movement through the slot.Sometimes A "Click" can be heard here,especially if/when the string is bent.The OPEN note sounds like a "Sitar", Muted,muffled..the note sounds "impure"
1" rectangle.Fold 320 grit in 1/2.= A Mini Saw!The 2 outer leaves have GRIT.- Stroke through the slot 1-6 times=Widens the slot.Test string at pitch.Problem rectified.
To only Deepen slot-Use the Folded edge ..allow it to run on the slot base.Apply Selo tape to the 2 leaves(Won't erase material off the 2 side walls,unintentionally Widening he slot)
Folded edge uppermost- Use the mini saw to now widen slot..(The 2 loose leaves won't Deepen the slot/No grit there!).Use 1 directional strokes only.1-6 strokes should suffice etc.Test at Pitch etc.
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Post by Phil on Oct 26, 2014 14:38:13 GMT -6
I put on a cheap set of Musician's Gear 10 gauge strings on Aug 22, 2014, I still haven't broken a string! I was breaking a DR Pure Blues high "E" every 2 weeks. I think Jack recommended these strings. They cost $2.29 a set. I bought 10 sets. At this rate these 10 sets will last me 3 of years.  |
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Post by cunningr on Oct 26, 2014 14:41:01 GMT -6
I am using some fender pure nickel now since I started using .10s I haven't broken any strings either, I had to put a new set on thought when I swapped the pickups.
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Post by wannaplayblues on Oct 27, 2014 10:41:19 GMT -6
I recently tried a change. Went for the traditional pure nickel too - the D'Addario type. Hoping to get a warmer tone. They certainly feel different:  |
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Post by cunningr on Oct 27, 2014 16:41:05 GMT -6
I had a set of those on but in.10 gauge, I really liked the once they stretched out a bit.
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